On Saturday, I had made arrangements to visit the Fundación Alberto Roth in Santo Pipó at 9:00AM. Again, I drove over an hour to Santo Pipó, a very small town along Highway 12. I then pulled over and asked someone at the bus terminal where Fundación Alberto Roth was located. He explained that I was to take the road on the opposite side of the highway until the pavement ended near a school and then take several turns to get to the foundation. He said that I wouldn’t be able to ask directions along the way because I wouldn’t find many people, but he drew me a map to help me find my way.
Driving to the Funcación Alberto Roth was quite an adventure. I followed the map and ended up on some deserted, narrow dirt roads. I was a bit worried about what to do if I encountered a car going the opposite direction (I’m still not sure what I would’ve done) and I was worried about driving on the dirt road if it rained (the forecast was for rain). I followed the man’s directions and ended up at someone’s house. As I wrote in the posting about Oberá, European immigrants started many of the first yerba mate plantations, and the house where I ended up, suggested it to be the property of someone from Europe. It was a lovely setting but clearly not my destination – I didn’t see any cars and nobody came to greet me other than 2 big dogs. Fortunately, I had cell phone coverage. I called my contact at Fundación Alberto Roth who told me to return to the school (where the pavement ended) and someone would come get me.
Driving to the Funcación Alberto Roth was quite an adventure. I followed the map and ended up on some deserted, narrow dirt roads. I was a bit worried about what to do if I encountered a car going the opposite direction (I’m still not sure what I would’ve done) and I was worried about driving on the dirt road if it rained (the forecast was for rain). I followed the man’s directions and ended up at someone’s house. As I wrote in the posting about Oberá, European immigrants started many of the first yerba mate plantations, and the house where I ended up, suggested it to be the property of someone from Europe. It was a lovely setting but clearly not my destination – I didn’t see any cars and nobody came to greet me other than 2 big dogs. Fortunately, I had cell phone coverage. I called my contact at Fundación Alberto Roth who told me to return to the school (where the pavement ended) and someone would come get me.
Fundación Alberto Roth was created to continue the vision of Alberto Roth, a Swiss immigrant who came to Misiones in 1925 and who planted yerba, among other things. He was an innovator and early environmentalist. The Fundación Alberto Roth is part of the Ruta de la Yerba Mate and tourists can stay in Alberto Roth’s former home. It is a lovely setting and I really look forward to returning in January or February. I think the kids will have fun playing and exploring.
Guests can pay to stay at the Fundación Alberto Roth as part of the Ruta de la Yerba Mate.
Guests can pay to stay at the Fundación Alberto Roth as part of the Ruta de la Yerba Mate.
Note, I posted photos and commentary regarding yerba mate at Fundación Alberto Roth under the “yerba mate” tab.
After having a nice lunch of empanadas and a tour of the grounds, I left Fundación Alberto Roth. I wanted to visit Yerba Mate Piporé (the yerba mate cooperative in Santo Pipó), also on the Ruta de la Yerba Mate, but the museum was closed on the weekend.
As I drove back to Posadas, I decided to stop at the former Jesuit mission among the Guaraní at Loreto. I made the detour to reminisce rather than to gather information. The Guaraní missions were the topic of my doctoral dissertation at Harvard and my first book, so I was already very knowledgeable about the subject. I had visited Loreto 10 years ago with John and F at the end of my yearlong Fulbright-Hays fellowship for dissertation research.
I was the only visitor at the time, so the guide kindly gave me a personalized tour. It was great; I got to ask specific questions and wasn’t bogged down with background information that I didn’t want to hear.
All of the missions were looted and largely destroyed. None of the buildings are complete. Some are in more disrepair than others. From what I remember, Loreto stands out from other missions because it still has a lot of trees and plants. It is fairly overgrown and the church is almost unrecognizable. Other missions have a much more grandiose church and defined walls of the Indians’ homes.
After having a nice lunch of empanadas and a tour of the grounds, I left Fundación Alberto Roth. I wanted to visit Yerba Mate Piporé (the yerba mate cooperative in Santo Pipó), also on the Ruta de la Yerba Mate, but the museum was closed on the weekend.
As I drove back to Posadas, I decided to stop at the former Jesuit mission among the Guaraní at Loreto. I made the detour to reminisce rather than to gather information. The Guaraní missions were the topic of my doctoral dissertation at Harvard and my first book, so I was already very knowledgeable about the subject. I had visited Loreto 10 years ago with John and F at the end of my yearlong Fulbright-Hays fellowship for dissertation research.
I was the only visitor at the time, so the guide kindly gave me a personalized tour. It was great; I got to ask specific questions and wasn’t bogged down with background information that I didn’t want to hear.
All of the missions were looted and largely destroyed. None of the buildings are complete. Some are in more disrepair than others. From what I remember, Loreto stands out from other missions because it still has a lot of trees and plants. It is fairly overgrown and the church is almost unrecognizable. Other missions have a much more grandiose church and defined walls of the Indians’ homes.
Note, I posted photos about a yerba mate tree at Mission Loreto under “Yerba Mate.”
After touring Mission Loreto, I drove back to Posadas. I went to Tras Los Pasos, a nice bookstore with a café. Then I wandered around Posadas for a while trying to find a place to get dinner. I walked and walked, trying to find a place where I felt comfortable eating alone. I ended up eating at a café on the central plaza. I ordered a lomito sandwich, which was so huge that I took home a half of it. The leftovers came in handy the next day when I was hungry for lunch but didn’t have time to stop to eat.
After touring Mission Loreto, I drove back to Posadas. I went to Tras Los Pasos, a nice bookstore with a café. Then I wandered around Posadas for a while trying to find a place to get dinner. I walked and walked, trying to find a place where I felt comfortable eating alone. I ended up eating at a café on the central plaza. I ordered a lomito sandwich, which was so huge that I took home a half of it. The leftovers came in handy the next day when I was hungry for lunch but didn’t have time to stop to eat.